| Leeks make their first appearance of the season | | | | Let it cool a little before serving. Garnish in the |
| in September but they are happy growing in the | | | | bowl with a few drops of cream, some chopped |
| winter soil. It's just as well, early spring is when | | | | curly parsley and a generous amount of freshly |
| they really get a chance to shine. Marking a mid | | | | ground pepper. |
| point between the deep, earthy root vegetables | | | | Leeks, egg and cress |
| of the cold, dark months and the more lively and | | | | The best way I know of letting an Irish leek sing |
| pronounced flavours of the spring/summer time | | | | Boil your trimmed leeks in lots of salty water until |
| they bring a sweet, unctuous, nutty warmth | | | | tender. Drain them, and when cool enough to |
| which too often takes a back seat in soups and | | | | handle, slice them in half lengthwise. Arrange them |
| stews. Let them take centre stage and you may | | | | on your plates or serving dish flatside up and |
| find they have quite a lot to say for themselves. | | | | season with olive oil, salt, pepper and a squeeze |
| Towards the end of April they develop a wooden | | | | of lemon juice. Serve with some cress dressed in |
| core and their flavour dulls. We only have a little | | | | a similar manner and some not-quite-hard boiled |
| time left to celebrate the last of the fine leeks. | | | | eggs cut in half lengthwise and seasoned with salt |
| The green stalks of the leek have quite a course | | | | and pepper. Work briskly so the leeks are still |
| flavour. I wouldn't be too hasty in giving them the | | | | slightly warm when served. |
| chop though. There is a cabbagy taste to them | | | | A smoky, leeky vinaigrette |
| that's a good natural companion to the onionyness | | | | This vinaigrette works pretty well with a range of |
| of the white stem. Parts will be too tough - I | | | | spring bounty. It's been tried and tested with |
| usually take a couple of inches off the top and | | | | boiled purple sprouting broccoli, grilled sardines and |
| the outside stalks right off. | | | | baked beetroot (yummy with some chervil to |
| A leek and potato soup | | | | garnish). |
| The vast leeks on offer in some supermarkets | | | | Try to get your hands on baby leeks, their sweet |
| aren't too generous when it comes to flavour. It | | | | intensity is important. If you're able to grill the |
| may be a soup, but it's a simple one, so its worth | | | | leeks over a smoky fire then you really are in for |
| sourcing some thumb width leeks whose flavour | | | | a treat. |
| will do it better justice. Like a classic Visschoise, | | | | Trim your baby leeks and cut them in half, |
| this recipe calls for water. If you've ample green | | | | lengthwise. Wash, and pat dry. Add some olive or |
| stalk trimmings, simmer them in water for half an | | | | nut oil to a near smoking hot pan. Place each leek |
| hour and use that liquor instead. | | | | half in the pan flat side down. Add a generous |
| Peel and then cut up some waxy potatoes into | | | | pinch of salt. When they begin to burn (don't be |
| small wedges. Cut the trimmed leeks in half | | | | coy - burn means blacken!) turn them over. When |
| lengthwise, rinse and then dice them. Add the | | | | they have all been turned, cook for half a minute |
| potatoes and leeks to a hot pan with olive oil. | | | | more with the occasional toss of the pan. Slide |
| Season well, and add a bunch of thyme tied to a | | | | them on to your chopping board and as soon as |
| bay leef and a sliver of lemon zest (with string or | | | | you can handle them (but they are still hot) chop |
| a long thyme stem). Before a minute's, up add | | | | them and add them to some lemon juice in a |
| warm water to the pan - two to three times the | | | | bowl. Stir and leave for ten minutes. Add your |
| volume of vegetables. Bring to the boil and then | | | | best olive oil, (if you find your olive oil to have |
| carefully skim any funny business that rises to | | | | more of a prickly than fruity flavour then I'd use |
| the surface. Check carefully for seasoning, cover | | | | half nut oil, so as not to overwhelm), salt and just |
| and very gently simmer until the potatoes are | | | | a smidgen of wholegrain mustard to taste. |
| tender. | | | | |